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How to Paint a Room Like a Professional
There is something deeply satisfying about walking into a freshly painted room. It feels cleaner, brighter, and somehow more you. Whether you are craving a calming sage green for your bedroom or a bold, statement-making teal for the living room, a new coat of paint is the most cost-effective way to transform your home.
However, we have all experienced the DIY disaster: the patchy finish, the paint drips on the skirting boards, or the colour that looks completely different on the wall than it did on the colour card. If the thought of picking up a roller fills you with dread, fear not. We have consulted with decorating experts to bring you the ultimate guide on how to paint a room like a professional, ensuring a flawless finish that you will be proud of for years to come.
1. The Golden Rule: Preparation is Everything
If you ask any professional decorator for their number one tip, they will all say the same thing: fail to prepare, prepare to fail. It is tempting to rush through the boring bits to get to the satisfying “colour on the wall” stage, but skimping on prep work is the primary reason for amateur-looking results.
Clearing and Cleaning
Start by removing as much furniture as possible from the room. For the items that remain, move them to the centre of the room and cover them completely with dust sheets. Ideally, use canvas sheets rather than plastic, as they are less slippery and more absorbent if you spill paint.
Next, look at your walls. Dust, cobwebs, and grease will stop paint from adhering properly. Give the walls a wipe down with sugar soap or a mild detergent solution. If you are painting the kitchen or bathroom, there may be grease or mould spots; treat these with a dedicated mould remover before you start painting.
Filling and Sanding
Once the walls are clean, inspect them for cracks, nail holes, or dents. Use a flexible filler and a filling knife to patch these up. Once the filler is completely dry, sand it down until it is flush with the wall. This is also the time to sand down any rough patches or old, flaking paint. A smooth surface is the secret to a professional finish.
2. Gather Your Toolkit
Using the right tools makes the job significantly easier and yields better results. You do not need to buy the most expensive equipment on the market, but avoiding the bargain bin is wise. Here is what you will need:
- Quality Brushes: A 2.5-inch angled brush is perfect for “cutting in” (more on that later). Synthetic bristles are best for water-based paints.
- Roller and Extension Pole: A roller speeds up the process immensely. An extension pole saves your back and helps you reach the ceiling without a ladder.
- The Right Roller Sleeve: The nap (or pile) of the roller matters. Use a short nap (5-7mm) for smooth walls and a longer nap (12-15mm) for textured walls like Artex.
- Painter’s Tape: Invest in high-quality, low-tack masking tape to protect your skirting boards and window frames.
- A Paint Kettle: Don’t paint straight from the tin. Pour your paint into a kettle (a handled bucket); it’s easier to hold and prevents dirt from getting into your main tin.
3. Master the Technique: Cutting In and Rolling
Now for the main event. Professional painters rarely use tape on the edges of the walls; they rely on a steady hand and a technique called “cutting in”. However, if you are a beginner, you can use tape on the woodwork to guide you, but remove it before the paint is fully dry to avoid peeling.
How to Cut In
“Cutting in” means painting the edges of the wall where the roller cannot reach—specifically the corners, the ceiling line, and around sockets and skirting boards.
Load your brush with paint (don’t dip it more than a third of the way up the bristles) and tap it against the side of the kettle. Start about an inch away from the edge you are painting and sweep the brush towards the line, gradually getting closer until the bristles create a sharp line. Take your time with this. Doing this first means you can roll the rest of the wall and blend the two areas together while the paint is still wet.
The Rolling Method
When using a roller, technique matters. Many people make the mistake of rolling in a random “W” shape, but professionals often recommend rolling from floor to ceiling in long, continuous vertical strokes. Overlap each stroke slightly. Work in sections of roughly 1 metre by 1 metre. Once you have covered a section, do a “light roll”—go over it again with a nearly dry roller to smooth out any lines or bubbles. This ensures an even texture.
4. Don’t Rush the Second Coat
Patience is a virtue, especially in decorating. It can be tempting to slap the second coat on as soon as the first one looks dry to the touch. However, paint needs time to cure. If you apply the second coat too soon, you risk dragging the wet paint underneath, creating streaks.
Check the tin for the manufacturer’s recommended drying time. Generally, you should wait at least 4 hours between coats for water-based emulsion. In humid conditions, you may need to wait longer. The second coat will provide the true depth of colour and cover any “holidays” (missed spots) from the first round.
5. Dealing with Woodwork
If you are painting the





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